THAI ARAWAN - A PLEASANT SURPRISE IS IN STORE FOR YOU…IN BED
Growing up in Oregon, my dad had been exposed to 50s era West Coast Chinese Food. This food was an adaptation of Chinese cooking by Chinese-Americans to appease the American palate with dishes like General Tso’s Chicken, Chop Suey, and Broccoli Beef. As the fares took root in California, they spread north into Oregon and Washington due to a large Chinese population. A similar movement happened on the east coast in cities with abundant Chinese residents. As the food became more popular, it worked its way from each coast inland creating a “Chop Suey Joint” boom across the country. You can learn more about this in a great documentary “The Search For General Tso."
My dad joined the Air Force in the early 60s and after being stationed in Japan for a stint, he was moved to the Amarillo Air Force base where he met my mother. He lived in Eastridge and found these restaurants similar to what he had experienced back home. After multiple awkward attempts, he finally convinced my mother to go on an actual date. He was all geared up to impress her with his Chinese Food knowledge and Chop Stick skills. They went to the Hong Kong Restaurant on Amarillo Blvd. He was all set to wow her and was saddened by her revelation that she did not like Chinese Food. His great plan was thwarted, but her appeasement of eating fried rice foretold a lifelong series of marital negotiations that continue to this day after over 50 years together.
Because my mother was not a Chinese Food fan, on the occasion when it was just me and dad, we would go to China Inn on Paramount (where Pacific Rim is now). The order of the “B” special for 2 was placed and we were presented with an appetizer of Egg Drop Soup commencing in dad teaching me the fine art of Egg Drop Soup Doctoring; a little soy sauce and pepper are the keys. After lesson one, a rolling tray appeared hauling a series of pedestaled, metal dishes containing Sweet & Sour Pork, Fried Shrimp, Chicken Chow Mein, and steamed rice. Lesson two began: how to use chopsticks. After much trial and error, I picked it up and was able to successfully transport the deliciousness to my mouth.
Over the years, we became friendly with the owner of China Inn, and upon turning 15, began my first job as a bus boy. For $3.25 an hour and a hot meal each night, I bussed tables and tried new dishes like Shrimp Subgum and Moo Goo Gai Pan. I became fascinated with the flavors that the typical Amarillo teen does not experience at home or at Furr’s. One of my favorite treats at China Inn was being able to take home a bag of the broken fortune cookies damaged in transport and crumbling them over ice cream. Delicious! After gathering some money, purchasing a car, and turning 16, I moved on from China Inn, but never lost my love for Chinese Food.
Since the late 1980s, Amarillo’s Chinese Food Cuisine Scene has migrated to an eclectic mix of Chinese, Thai, Laotian, Vietnamese, and Japanese. After the Vietnam War, Amarillo became home to a large population of Southeast Asian refugees and immigrants. As they started working in Chinese Food restaurants, the menus began transforming to what I affectionately refer to with the utmost respect as “Vaguely Asian.” What started with Chow Mein and Chicken Cashew evolved into a melange of whole-continent flavors ranging from Thai staples Pad Thai and Moo Satay to Laotian Beef Jerky and Sticky Rice. Business Idea - I have joked that I am going to open “Vaguely Asian Joint” that has a wide variety of dishes from all areas of Asia. Then I will expand and open ”Vaguely Mexican Joint” soon to be followed by “Vaguely American Joint.” The possibilities are endless.
There are dozens of restaurants in Amarillo following this model all over town and their menus have plenty of overlap. There are establishments dotting the Southwest side of town, and clusters of them on the Northeast side of town. I have been told quite a few of the more well known ones trace back to My Thai, but I have no way to confirm these reports. I have heard rumors “The guy that owns this restaurant started as a cook at My Thai.” “The chef there is the cousin of the owner of King & I.” One discovery during my research for this article; the Banker Special I see on most menus doesn’t seem to be found on any menu outside of Amarillo, but is on myriad menus in Amarillo. This seems to be evidence of the rumored “Family Tree” of restaurants in town. If you Google “Banker Special Food”, you will be presented with a list of only Amarillo restaurants. Whatever the story, I am amazed at the level of quality and freshness at most of the Joints in this cuisine style.
THE JOINT EXPERIENCE
I have a few favorites in town. Among them are My Thai, Taste of Thai, and Thai Taste. The one I frequent mostly is Thai Arawan. First opened in a Georgia Street strip mall, they moved to their current location on Wolflin a few years later. The menu includes all the expected staples. There is the ubiquitous Pick Two Lunch Special featuring the conventional Sweet & Sour Pork and Broccoli Beef. Their Pad Thai and Fried Rice are solid, delicious examples of the regular Thai offerings. But if you look a little closer, you will see some unique items varying from the Vaguely Asian theme. The list of curries is distinctive as are the soups. The Arawan Pad Thai is a variant on traditional Pad Thai with the entire dish put into an omelet. One of my favorite items is something not listed on the menu: the Atkins Bowl. It is a pile of your choice of meat with a slew of vegetables that would make any diet proud. I get mine with Chicken and ask for Spicy Thai Style. Give it a try. It’s amazing.
Today’s order was an appetizer of Beef Jerky and Sticky Rice, Arawan Pad Thai, Mongolian Beef, and the Lunch Special with Pepper Steak and Lemon Chicken for the non-adventurous traitor in the group. Side Note, eat what you like, but when you are with self-described Joint Snobs, prepare to catch Hell for it. Jerky and Sticky Rice were so good it was 2/3rds gone before I could snap a pic. This was my first time for the Arawan Pad Thai and I wasn’t sure what to expect. It was good, but because eggs are not my favorite thing, I prefer the Traditional Pad Thai. The Mongolian Beef was spicy and delightful. I am sure the Lunch Special was good, because the plate was clean.
I think the Amarillo Chop Suey Joints are mostly gone, replaced with Vaguely Asian Joints and we are all better because of it. We can still get our Sesame Chicken fix, while branching out to Massaman Curry. And mom can still get Fried Rice, too.
Website
2834 Wolflin
Amarillo, TX 79109
806-463-7167
Recommended Dishes
Chicken Atkins Bowl - Spicy
Combo Pad Thai
Arawan Spicy
